The Iceland Traverse Day – 16 / Laugavegur Trail Day – 2
I awoke to a crisp morning, the air still cool and the clouds hanging low over the mountains. It was the perfect start to a day of hiking, and I was eager to get going. My preference for an early start is well-known among my hiking companions; I like to beat the crowds and have a more relaxed afternoon, if possible. We set off above the hut, heading towards a plateau that offered breathtaking views across the valley and of the surrounding mountains.
One of the first challenges of the day was a river crossing that intersected with a 4x4 track. The water was painfully cold, but we braved it, hiking hard to ward off the chill. Just as we crossed, the rain began to fall, and it kept coming. We climbed a steep but steady mountain pass, the rain intensifying with each step. The wind, which was forecast to be strong, hit us head-on, driving the rain into our faces. I struggled to keep the rain out of my hood, my head down, desperate to stay dry.
As we reached the top of the pass, we encountered other hikers coming down. They were dressed in waterproofs and carrying heavy bags, at least having the rain behind them. We descended towards Emstrur hut, the trail becoming a narrow ledge cut into the hillside. The rain continued, and we found refuge in the hut, where we met other hikers and shared stories of the trail ahead.
After a quick snack, we bid them farewell and ventured back out into the mist and rain. As we dropped down and round the next mountain, the weather began to improve. The clouds lifted slightly, and the rain subsided, allowing us to shed our waterproofs. We stayed low for most of the rest of the day, following the Makarfjot river over lava sands, sharp rock fields, and ancient birch woodlands.
The trees were not much taller than me, and we stopped in a little valley next to a small mountain stream for lunch. While the water boiled, we filtered more drinking water, carrying only a litre at a time due to the abundance of water on this section. After lunch, we rounded the corner and started to drop down towards a deep, raging river-filled canyon.
A little bridge inside the canyon offered fantastic views up the length of it. Once we reached the other side, the rain returned, and we were back into our waterproofs. We descended beside the river into a valley so green with moss that it almost felt luminous. The climb up the other side was short but steep, and we found ourselves in the clouds again.
After taking the trail along the top of the pass, through shallow streams and over small rolling hills, we descended steeply. We were heading for Skogar, and the path became a small but well-marked gravel path. We arrived at Langidalur Hut in Skogar and booked in for camping. After eating some extra snacks we bought from the hut warden, we set up our tent.
The wardens at the huts constantly receive weather updates for the local area, so we went and spoke to the warden to see if better weather was coming. Apparently, it was! The sun was due to come out by 9 am, and the clouds would lift completely. We were technically at the end of the Laugavegur trail but still had the beautiful Fimmvorduhals traverse to go, a high, steep, narrow mountain pass that would take us all day.
We had our dinner in the food tent, chatted with others who had been hiking in the area, and soon went to bed, planning a steady start the next day to get the best views possible in the best weather from the start. But for now, I was content to reflect on the day's adventures and the beauty of Iceland's wilderness.
In my opinion, this day on the Laugavegur trail was a testament to the power of nature and the resilience of the human spirit. The challenges we faced, from the cold river crossing to the steep mountain passes, were met with determination and a sense of wonder at the beauty around us. It was a day that reminded me of the importance of being prepared, both physically and mentally, for the unexpected. And as we ventured into the unknown, I couldn't help but feel a sense of excitement and anticipation for the adventures that lay ahead.
